First impressions from both a native and tourist perspective….

It never ceases to amaze me! After 12 years of visiting Lima, I’m always surprised by how long it takes to get around the city. Lima is a metropolis that hosts one-third of the 28 million residents, so it is large and there is tons of traffic. My relatives happen to live at almost opposite ends, so visiting them can easily take me more than one hour. To complicate matters, I’ve realized that I have been spoiled every time I’ve visited. I’ve always been accompanied by a relative or friend who takes me wherever I need to go, so I’ve never had to really get around on my own….that is until now! Since I’ll be here for 2 months, I now have to venture out on my own but I’ve found that it is not that simple. The streets here are not numbered, instead they have names. They also don’t really go straight north and south or even diagonal. They have turns, loops, breaks in between, and change name along the way. Maybe this is also why people don’t tend to think in terms of north, south, east or west. They instead reference a street but if you don’t know the street names, you are still lost! As a result of this complexity, I’ve been diligently studying Google maps :)

Taxi cabs here are really cheap, well, that is comparing it to US prices. The price difference between taking a bus or taxi is huge. For instance, typically you’ll pay $2 for a 25 min cab ride. If you take the bus, it will cost you $0.33. Therefore, locals will typically ride the bus. Since I’m on a low student budget and want to experience how it really is like living in Lima, I’ve decided to take the bus as much as possible. This is not as simple as it sounds though, so I’ve been 50% successful! The transportation system is VERY interesting. First, there is an unwritten rule. Unlike in the US, cars and not pedestrians have the right-of-way. I’ve already tried to teach a couple of drivers to stop at a stop sign but had to jump out of their way so not to get run over…but I have not given up yet! :) Second, besides the taxis and buses, you also have the ‘combis’ ….imagine a family van with 25 people! Throughout the years, the combis have won a reputation for being reckless. I remember often hearing stories of combis running over people. Third, no one typically obeys the traffic laws, and buses, combis, and taxis stop anywhere on the street to get people on or off. You can literally get on or off a vehicle while in the middle lane, just be careful there are no cars passing by that can run you over! In all of this, I have noticed one change. I now do see there are assigned bus/combi stops, and police officers at times patrol the streets to ensure vehicles only stop there. I have noticed though, that the buses or combis will only obey this traffic law if they see a police officer nearby because they will either get an official fine or an unofficial one (in other words, a bribe). Needless to say, every day I step out of the house is an adventure!

From the more touristy perspective, I had the opportunity to show Lima to three Fuqua friends that had a 12-hour layover on their way back to Durham. It was so great to see them enjoy the city and the wonderful Peruvian cuisine. Our first stop was La Mar, one of the best restaurants in town for eating ceviche. There was a one-hour wait, so we got on the list and went to have an appetizer at Mi Causa, which was across the street and is one of the best places for eating causa, another incredible Peruvian dish.



Once you are done with the ceviche, don’t forget to drink the juice the fish is marinated in…this is called ‘leche de tigre’ or ‘tiger’s milk’ in English. Just ask Lamisa if she liked it! :)

We couldn’t do justice to the visit without pisco sours, a traditional Peruvian alcoholic drink. Years ago I remember there was only one type of pisco sour, now they have pisco sours of all flavors… salud!



After eating so much, we had to walk it all off, so we went to Miraflores, one of the better districts of Lima. As we walked around the main park/square, I noticed the transformation the city has had, at least in this district; no more crowded sidewalks from the many street vendors, garbage bins at every corner that help keep the streets much more cleaner, and green parks with beautiful flower beds. This is not the Lima I remember from 20 years ago and I’m happy to be here and enjoy the improvement the country has made in the last several years.

Before we headed back to the airport, I HAD to take my friends to Churros Manolo, the best place to eat churros! When I used to live in Lima, it was a family tradition to go to Manolo’s for some churros every so many weeks. These are churros filled with manjar blanco (also known as dulce de leche), chocolate or vanilla…simply delicious!