domingo, 25 de enero de 2009

Business culture and customs

Have you ever been asked to send in your picture along with your resume when applying for a corporate job? Here in Peru it is part of the business culture to not only ask for a picture at the time you apply but to also have a maximum age requirement for the position, and this is typically explicitly stated on the job posting. In case you don’t believe me, below is a recent job add for an accountant in the business section of a well established local newspaper; are you older than 30? Then you can’t apply!



Since starting my project two weeks ago I’ve noticed business customs that even I have had to adjust to. The most notorious one is when you first greet the person you are meeting with. In the U.S., it is done with a handshake. In Peru, it is typically done with a kiss on the cheek. It is known that in the Latin culture this is how you greet everyone but I’ve always thought it was only done in social settings. Due to my experience in the U.S. business environment, it is a custom I am not used to yet. It is hard to tell if someone will prefer a handshake or a kiss on the cheek, so I just have to follow the lead.

Regarding social customs, don’t forget to use your fork and knife when you eat a sandwich. Yes, your sandwich! This must be the latest fad in Lima since I had never before noticed that custom. As a matter of fact, when I started my project, I started going to this one coffee shop type place to eat because it is near where I work. My first day there, I ordered a sandwich and ate it as I usually do in the U.S., no fork and knife needed. On my second day, as I was picking up my sandwich I noticed that at all of the other tables people were eating their sandwich with their fork and knife. I felt like a cavewoman! As the saying goes “when in Rome, do as the Romans do;” so I quickly put down my sandwich and picked up my fork and knife. To tell you the truth, I didn’t enjoy my sandwich as much :) One week later, at a different place, I noticed the same thing. I again followed the lead. When I asked my family about this custom, they pointed out that this is the latest in the middle to upper class in the city. I was definitely not aware!

I had the opportunity to spend New Year’s Eve in Peru. Did you wear your yellow underwear, ate 12 grapes, carried coins or lentils in your pockets, or ran around your neighborhood with your suitcase at midnight on the 31st?!? Well, I didn’t either but these are definitely local customs. The yellow underwear, and anything yellow for that matter, is for good luck. The 12 grapes at midnight allow you one wish per month. You do have to eat all 12 within the first minute, so be careful not to choke! The coins or lentils in your pockets are so that the New Year brings you money/wealth. Running around your neighborhood with a piece of suitcase is so that you travel a lot during the New Year. Another tradition not yet mentioned is the piñatas. Piñatas representing any public figure that received a lot of attention throughout the year are sold everywhere and you can take it out on “him/her" at midnight.



The last New Year’s tradition worth mentioning is one that I always remember from when I was a kid and lived in Peru. We used to make human-size dolls stuffed with old clothes, fireworks, school notebooks (school year here ends in December since it starts in March), and anything else you would want to get rid off. Then at midnight, you would light it up. This signifies getting rid of the old and starting the New Year fresh.

This year I started off my year with friends from Fuqua that were in Lima, either visiting their families or passing by. We were at a New Year Eve’s party and experienced another Peruvian social custom at 3:30 AM. There is a soup we call ‘aguadito’ or sometimes better referred to as ‘levanta muertos’ which means that it brings back the dead :) So after almost 6 hours of partying, we were served aguadito to “bring everyone back to live” and continue with the party. Great recommendation for a long night out!

lunes, 12 de enero de 2009

First impressions from both a native and tourist perspective….

It never ceases to amaze me! After 12 years of visiting Lima, I’m always surprised by how long it takes to get around the city. Lima is a metropolis that hosts one-third of the 28 million residents, so it is large and there is tons of traffic. My relatives happen to live at almost opposite ends, so visiting them can easily take me more than one hour. To complicate matters, I’ve realized that I have been spoiled every time I’ve visited. I’ve always been accompanied by a relative or friend who takes me wherever I need to go, so I’ve never had to really get around on my own….that is until now! Since I’ll be here for 2 months, I now have to venture out on my own but I’ve found that it is not that simple. The streets here are not numbered, instead they have names. They also don’t really go straight north and south or even diagonal. They have turns, loops, breaks in between, and change name along the way. Maybe this is also why people don’t tend to think in terms of north, south, east or west. They instead reference a street but if you don’t know the street names, you are still lost! As a result of this complexity, I’ve been diligently studying Google maps :)

Taxi cabs here are really cheap, well, that is comparing it to US prices. The price difference between taking a bus or taxi is huge. For instance, typically you’ll pay $2 for a 25 min cab ride. If you take the bus, it will cost you $0.33. Therefore, locals will typically ride the bus. Since I’m on a low student budget and want to experience how it really is like living in Lima, I’ve decided to take the bus as much as possible. This is not as simple as it sounds though, so I’ve been 50% successful! The transportation system is VERY interesting. First, there is an unwritten rule. Unlike in the US, cars and not pedestrians have the right-of-way. I’ve already tried to teach a couple of drivers to stop at a stop sign but had to jump out of their way so not to get run over…but I have not given up yet! :) Second, besides the taxis and buses, you also have the ‘combis’ ….imagine a family van with 25 people! Throughout the years, the combis have won a reputation for being reckless. I remember often hearing stories of combis running over people. Third, no one typically obeys the traffic laws, and buses, combis, and taxis stop anywhere on the street to get people on or off. You can literally get on or off a vehicle while in the middle lane, just be careful there are no cars passing by that can run you over! In all of this, I have noticed one change. I now do see there are assigned bus/combi stops, and police officers at times patrol the streets to ensure vehicles only stop there. I have noticed though, that the buses or combis will only obey this traffic law if they see a police officer nearby because they will either get an official fine or an unofficial one (in other words, a bribe). Needless to say, every day I step out of the house is an adventure!

From the more touristy perspective, I had the opportunity to show Lima to three Fuqua friends that had a 12-hour layover on their way back to Durham. It was so great to see them enjoy the city and the wonderful Peruvian cuisine. Our first stop was La Mar, one of the best restaurants in town for eating ceviche. There was a one-hour wait, so we got on the list and went to have an appetizer at Mi Causa, which was across the street and is one of the best places for eating causa, another incredible Peruvian dish.



Once you are done with the ceviche, don’t forget to drink the juice the fish is marinated in…this is called ‘leche de tigre’ or ‘tiger’s milk’ in English. Just ask Lamisa if she liked it! :)



We couldn’t do justice to the visit without pisco sours, a traditional Peruvian alcoholic drink. Years ago I remember there was only one type of pisco sour, now they have pisco sours of all flavors… salud!



After eating so much, we had to walk it all off, so we went to Miraflores, one of the better districts of Lima. As we walked around the main park/square, I noticed the transformation the city has had, at least in this district; no more crowded sidewalks from the many street vendors, garbage bins at every corner that help keep the streets much more cleaner, and green parks with beautiful flower beds. This is not the Lima I remember from 20 years ago and I’m happy to be here and enjoy the improvement the country has made in the last several years.

Before we headed back to the airport, I HAD to take my friends to Churros Manolo, the best place to eat churros! When I used to live in Lima, it was a family tradition to go to Manolo’s for some churros every so many weeks. These are churros filled with manjar blanco (also known as dulce de leche), chocolate or vanilla…simply delicious!





domingo, 4 de enero de 2009

Before I leave...

It is time to pack and get ready for my two-month trip. For me, a trip to Peru has happened every 1-2 years for the last 12 years but now it feels different. For the first time, after I left the country 20 years ago, I will be staying for an extended period of time. In addition, unlike all of my other trips to Peru, the main reason for going now is not to visit my extended family but instead it is to conduct some research. I will be assessing the current country ecosystem for a possible post-MBA opportunity through an independent study. For all of these reasons, I’m a little anxious about what awaits, both the expected and unexpected. My personal, professional, and educational experiences will undoubtedly be valuable in completing my independent study but I am aware that the business culture in Peru will be different than the way we do business in the US. My knowledge of the local culture at a personal level will help but I know I still have a lot to learn.

I am excited at the opportunity to share time again with my extended but close family members. I always remember the family gatherings we had every week and this part of the culture is what I’ve missed the most. Peruvian cuisine has been rated as one of the top in the world, so I’m also looking forward to the wonderful food! Living in Peru again, now as an adult, will be a different experience and it will allow me to assess the possibility of living there again post MBA.

In preparation for my trip, I’ve scheduled meetings in Washington, DC with different development and investment organizations that work in my focus areas and region. The meetings will take place immediately after completing my final exams and before I leave the US. The objective is to understand the work they have already done and are currently doing, as well as to learn from their experiences and listen to their advice before my departure. In addition, I’ve already been communicating with different organizations and individuals in the country whose missions are aligned with my project objectives. Meetings with them have been scheduled for soon after my arrival. I will officially start my project on January 6th, 2009. Before this time, I will be visiting and spending time with the many family members still living in Lima. This in itself is a full time job!

Leaving Fuqua for two months to be in the “real world” will teach me lessons I will not be able to learn in the classroom. However, I will definitely miss the many friends I’m leaving behind. The time spent at the Duke MBA has been incredible. The lessons learned there are invaluable and I know they will help me be successful in this new endeavor I’m about to embark on. I will rejoin my friends in March for our last term at Duke and will make the last two months there the best two months of the MBA!